All Women's Talk

Backstage MAC

By Beauty

Thanks to MAC Cosmetics and photos from, we got a recap of beauty trends straight from Autumn/Winter 2007 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

Yigal Azrouel:

“It’s the colors of nature when they corrode.” says key makeup artist Romy Soleimani at Yigal Azrouel, describing the softly-blended charcoal brown and olive eyes tha she finely lined with a greenish-black hue. “this collection is more industrial for him.” she said of the designer’s Malevich-inspired, deconstructed pieces in somber hues. “Yigal is into layers so I layered the eyes as well.” Soleimani kept the rest of a rather pale face relatively bare, lightly brushing MAC powder on cheeks to add contour and dabbing the mouth with Flesh Lip- a new, matte balm available in concealer-like tints. topped off with a messy low ponytail, this look conveyed the effortless cool of a New York girl…one who likes to stay up late.

Nicole Miller:

The nomadic woman has somehow wandered into the tents at Bryant Park. “She’s been hiking,” said MAC makeup artist Christian McCullouch, as he played with earthy tones of clay, taupe and teracotta on models in fish braids and ethnic prints. “Morocco, Peru, India. These are all influences.” he continued, stippling Ladyblush and Pleasureful Blushcremes on not only cheek apples, but across the nose bridge, too, for a burnished effect. Aside from swirling a glimmery brown (Root Cream Colour Base) on lids, he left the face matte, including the lips. There was no lining, no mascara, no nothing. Who’s got time when you’re busy globe-trotting?


“What Nan Kempner might have worn if spending a bit of time with Bob Dylan in the West Village,” said Ruffian’s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais of their modern Beatnik feeling for Fall. Given that this translated as lean anatomy, rock n’ roll detailing and a sense of androgyny, Rie Omoto “didn’t want the makeup to make a statement or impact. I wanted subtle, believable,” she said. A sheer butter-gold on lids and milk chocolate in the crease of the eyes, set against black lashes, were the means to this delicate end, “just giving enough dimensionso they come alive,” while lips had the whisper of a wintry flush with a well-blotted trace of wine-y Dubonnet Lipstick…Ms.Kempner after a glass of red with Dylan, perhaps.


Threeasfour girls have their downtown DNA injected with elegance this Fall, with Gordon Espinet coming over more polished and precise than is usual for the label. Not that it’s gone totally Bergdorf’s: look closer and “there’s nothing too predictable about her,” says Espinet. True enough, he morphed black liner into an ebony’d teal or an inky burgundy, and applied it “upside down, so that the darkest part of the eye makeup is along the lower lash line rather than on the lid.” Bare lids also added an edge- “there’s something so sensual about a naked eyelid,” cooed Espinet- with liner encasing them at the inner and outer corners to bring in that superblended finish to the look. “Sure, she’s gone uptown, but she’s always got an element of cool to her look.”

Luella Bartley:

One thing you can rely on designer Luella Bartley for is putting a savvy, iconic spin on English style: artisto-meets-Marc Bolan is at the heart of the Luella-girl look. Sure enough, to counter the posh Tatler-worthy frocks she’s presented for Fall, makeup artist Diane Kendall went down the T Rex route with kohl rimmed eyes, fresh skin and fleshed out lips. “It’s not too precise, of course,” explained Kendall, sketching black kohl in a heavier line along the lower lashline than the top one, and smudging it out a bit with her finger “to make it feel more rock n’ roll.” Unsurprisingly, lashes were left bare as the skin - heaven forbid a glamorous feeling taint the street cred of Luella’s look…


Tuleh designer Brian Bradley always just loves a good makeup look to compliment his frocks. “This season he asked for a deep eye and lip,” said makeup artist Polly Osmond… a tricky one not to end up on eighties Versace/Avedon campaign territory, one might think? Osmond cleverly avoided going hard glamazonian by blending shadowy chocolate eyes in a round, rather than winged, shape, and popped on a peachy blush “to get away from the idea of an eighties contoured cheek.” Rusty chocolate lips were every bit lady Godiva- delicious and diva-ishly intense.

Luca Luca:

Luca Luca women aren’t wash n’ go types. She wants a blow-dry and a full face of makeup before running out the door in her fur, thank you very much. So Tom Pecheux didn’t mess around with her makeup. Every bit as haute as her couture, he pumped up the polish with graphite cat eyes that were all about “power and strength… Luca is leaning towards a tougher look this season,” said Pecheux. As if the intense carbon-rimmed eyes weren’t impactful enough as they were, he glammed up the darkness with a layer of shimmery pewter pigment and refused any color on the lips and cheeks “just to keep it form looking pretty.” She’s rich and boy, does she mean business…

Adam + Eve:

Classic sportswear line Adam + Eve is feeling more dressed up this Fall. So while designer Adam Lippes always asks makeup artist Romy Soleimani for something on the healthy, natural side, this season she “added an extra definement to the eye… still young and fresh, but a little more intense.” she said, smudging slate eye liner around the eyes and a gentle taupe eyeshadow into the socket before giving lashes a little help with a coat of MAC X Mascara. With candied pink cheeks and a honey gleam on her lips finishing the look, this girl’s makeup is as effortlessly stylish as her clothes.

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