Not so Light Feast of Lights


It cannot be denied that my culinary heritage inclines to the, well, leaden.

It comes most directly from Eastern European Jews on the one side, and the East End of London on the other, but most of all it comes from poor people and hard times.

All of my grandparents were genuinely, seriously hungry pretty regularly, and my parents, later reasonably prosperous, did not have all they wanted to eat as children.

People who are...

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