When Phillip Lim is inspired by David Bowie's character The Man Who Fell to Earth and Stevie Nicks of Fleetwood Mac, the resulting collection is full of sheer fabrics, satin, Swarovski crystals dotted here and there, and even a little glam gold.

The hems are much more modest on this Lim collection than they have been in the past: the skirts and dresses all hit right at knee-length, if not below. The matronly feel was carried through ...