In a town where the International Herald Tribune arrives at your door in the morning dressed in Fendi—today it was a chic, shiny “F” logo envelope—you know packaging is all-important. Even at a restaurant like Bice, where we dined with friends last night—the maître d' instinctively knows where to seat the various tribes, taking care to leave enough space between Hearst, Hachette, and Condé Nast diners (polite waves were exchanged, of course) so that the tableau vivant is a happy ...