Normally when I reach for a bottle of red wine, I grab a Zinfandel or Pinot Noir. Only recently, while at a Syrah tasting, did I wonder why I've been neglecting Syrah. At the tasting, there were plenty of wonderful Syrahs, however, Tallulah's 2004 offering ($28) was the most memorable.

From the Sonoma Coast, this Syrah has a dark plum color with delicious aromas of cherry and pepper. It's an elegant, soft, full-bodied wine �" that is neither too ...